Who are AFC Wimbledon?

If someone stopped me on the street and asked ‘Tell me something about AFC Wimbledon?’ – I would reply

1. The Crazy Gang/FA Cup win

2. The debacle with MK Dons (is it even safe to print their name?)

3. The bonkers fact that they nearly played their HOME games in Dublin. Yes really. 🤷‍♂️

When I moved to London in 2009 I was always interested in exploring football clubs that had a rich history but were further down the food chain. The main reason being they are more accessible, have highly engaged / passionate fans and you can generally feel what the club means to supporters in the stands on matchday. Thus – I found myself visiting Kingsmeadow on a regular basis between 2009-2011 and watching The Dons ply their trade in non-league football.

Fast forward 12 years and they are now an established league outfit (League Two) with a brand new stadium in central London (opened 2020). I am informed by a supporter on Twitter that the clubs long term presence at Plough Lane can be attributed to the hard work done by Sidney Black in the 50’s and 60’s. Look him up – they weren’t lying! And so begins this blog…

Dodging a Bullet

The AFC Wimbledon-Irish links just keep coming. Bear with me. Getting a football stadium built in Ireland is very hard. Planning permission can be a minefield, the finances necessary are huge, the backing from local and national bodies are not always forthcoming and the sheer demand (in terms of supporter numbers) make it difficult to have your voice heard. Recently Shamrock Rovers and Bohemian FC (both based in Dublin) have gone down the local council route which has set a template for the league moving forward; financially viable, mutually beneficial, quicker approval process and done right – rather than being rushed. Good thing the Dublin move didn’t happen AFC Wimbledon fans – otherwise they may have been following their team in a public park every Saturday at 3pm………..in Dublin, Ireland.

Effective Planning

The way in which football is so deeply ingrained in the English DNA make stadiums ubiquitous. And so it is that AFC Wimbledon (fan owned and run) have recently developed Plough Lane – a stadium that was first built in 1912 after the club was formed in 1889. The original site of Plough Lane is now turned into a housing development with buildings named after former players. Its safe to assume that (comparable to the above Irish route) the viability of the stadiums construction was aided by an agreement for Plough Lane to sit alongside multi-story apartments which surround one half of the arena. This, in itself, makes the stadium unique in its appearance and surprisingly easy on the eye. Additionally – the stadium itself is surrounded by tall walls that insulate the stands allowing for plenty of space inside that includes; food trucks, numerous benches and seating, a kids/family play area, bars and necessary amenities.

The New Plough Lane

Rather than a stadium that sits on its own (ex. Elland Road) – Plough Lane is insulated and surrounded by residential and commercial buildings. Meaning one minute you are polishing off a pint of ale in The Corner Pub, a short walk around corner and there she is.

The staffing was excellent meaning quick and easy access to the stadium was made 30 mins before kick off. Once inside you are struck by how small and charming the design is. In terms of size – it reminded me of Dean Court (now called Vitality). Its also possible to do a full 360 walk around the pitch which, due to policing, can be a rarity in English football. Behind the South Stand – there is the By The Horns pub which is very lively. It serves a variety of beers, hosts numerous screens with football and is sheltered. Outside the bar is a DJ playing some tunes to keep the atmosphere buzzing. The club shop is big, has a massive variety of options and really friendly staff.

Bad Day at the Office

Plough Lane seats 9,215. Ahead of kick off the atmosphere is decent but a 1-5 thumping by Swindon Town soon cools enthusiasm. For me – Pearson (#28) and Chislett (#11) stood out in terms of technical ability and willingness to get at Swindon’s flat back four. But they struggled to impact the game with Swindon looking likely to score every time they went forward. The Dons played a 4-1-4-1 and lost the midfield battle all day meaning they couldn’t get a foothold. A fan sitting near me explained that they had a number of injuries but made no excuses for a poor run of results. If The Wombles weren’t an optimistic bunch they wouldn’t have formed/reformed in 2002 and certainly would not have returned to their homeland of South-West London 18 years later. And so it is on matchday that Haydon – their Womble mascot – does his best to rally the fans throughout.

Bright Future for the Phoenix

I won’t lie – this particular visit to Plough Lane came on a day where the fans seemed quite dejected (understandable after that result) and keen for the season to come to close. However – when you consider what they have been through as a community and football club I was quick to re-assure anyone I spoke with to ‘keep the faith’ and take pride in what they have achieved in such a short time. They are a unified and determined fanbase with a wonderful future ahead of them. Only this week - there is a vote through The Dons Trust to protect Plough Lane against future sale which is imperative but should solidify their hold on the stadium and allow them to plan for the future. As the banner says ‘We Are the Resurrection - And We Are The Light’. I look forward to returning soon and experiencing the next chapter in this fascinating football club.

A Journey - 30 years in the making

I am 37 years of age. That means I was part of the generation raised by James Richardson & Football Italia (that beautiful sound of GOLACCIO!) As such - Italian football has always fascinated me. Particularly the 90’s when I remember; the greatest footballers in the world playing in Serie A, packed stadiums, diving, bribery, hair bands and a feeling that Italy was the centre of the world. That grandeur may have faded in the face of the Premier League but my fascination has not and so this trip to San Siro, you could argue, was 30 years in the making.

When it comes to AC Milan - this is one of those rare football clubs that is, in fact, a global brand. That crest (the flag of Milan sitting alongside their distinctive colours) is familiar to most people and for the players that have donned the famous red and black (Maldini, Van Basten, Baresi, Pirlo, Inzaghi) - their diminished status (in terms of competing at the highest level) may have waned but their reputation has not. Therefore it’s with excitement that I am woken at 5am by my alarm with Dave waiting outside in the taxi. [side note] I did find myself sleeping downstairs on the couch as my wife understandably has zero interest in being woken at that time - in addition to then minding our two kids for the weekend while her husband watches football and eats pasta. Eh...let’s not go there…

I have known Dave for years having played football with his son Gary and the journey to the airport is filled with…yes you guessed it…football related trivia and current affairs. Dave is as affable as they come but today his mind is preoccupied with the impending logistical nightmare of balancing Celtics busy up & coming schedule (Dave is a Celtic fan and travels regularly to Park Head in Glasgow) with that of Shamrock Rovers (having just qualified for the Conference League). This planning seems to have taken precedent over Dave’s partner, kids, family, a relatives wedding, friends and…well…everything. My kind of skin. 

Dublin to Milan - with the Alps in between

I am fearing a scene from Helms Deep at Dublin airport but am surprised to get through security in under 20 mins and to my gate within another 15 mins. Ideal. Its at this time I decide to (with cappuccino in hand) re-visit one of my favourite football books; John Foot’s Calcio (see image above). We love football (and sport) for the drama. The agony vs ecstasy element means a dramatic win will fuel your passion for the game indefinitely while the crushing blow of a defeat will sour it…but only for the short term. And if its a dramatic footballing history you seek - look no further than Italy. 4 x World Cups, British inspired formations throughout the 1880’s, The Great Theft of 1925, Superga disaster of 1949, World War Two and Mussolini, The Turone Goal of 1981, Calciopoli(s), Berlusconi’s use of AC Milan & Forza Italia. You name it. The drama of Calcio sustained me from Dublin airport all the way to Bergamo.

As the flight started to descend into Bergamo I was treated to a stunning view of the Alps (see above) as well as the rolling hills of Bergamo. An excellent form of tourist advertising I might add as its a gorgeous sight to behold. Its also the home of Atalanta FC so I may find myself partaking on this route again. WARNING Getting through Bergamo security can take some time. Unfortunately the automated passport machines in Bergamo airport were not working which led to a large queue and nearly 90 mins getting through security. No bother - I was through the other side, picked up my 10 euro bus ticket to Milan central train station and even got to try out some of my Italian. Its not great. 

Piacere di conoscerti Paolo

I had reached Milan central and decided to treat myself to a taxi direct to the hotel. This turned out to be a great call as I had the pleasure of being driven by Paalo. Paalo is a Napoli fanatic who, through broken English, explained to me that he had seen Maradonna live on a few occasions in the San Paulo (recently renamed Stadio Diego Armando Maradona) and is a life-long fan. He also explained that he was coaching kids to a very decent standard (feeding some Serie A youth systems) and is related to a famous Italian referee. I don’t know if its persistence or just blind luck but my record with making friends with ‘football mad taxi drivers’ is outstanding. I told him all about my obsession with the game, life long desire to see the San Siro and exchanged contact details in case he ever wanted to take in a game in Ireland.

The City

Quick tip - if visiting Milan you can purchase a 3 x day metro ticket for 12 euro. A bargain - especially when you consider that the service itself is excellent. Quick drop of the bags to hotel room (complete with picturesque view of herself / see above) and we were off exploring this gorgeous city. Milan is the capital of Lombardy and is a leading financial and manufacturing hub in northern Italy. Its most well known landmark is the Duomo Cathedral in the centre of the city. Its a stunning 14th century church and well worth the visit. Surrounding the cathedral are an array of cafes, restaurants and retail outlets that mean you will not be short of things to do. One such spot is Motta (anyone who instantly associates that word with Milan’s 91-94 jersey is my kinda person) where you can grab freshly made pastries and delicious coffee. Its busy but worth the effort.

We then attempted to see The Last Supper but upon reaching the Dominican convent were met with ’Sold Out’ ticket banners and informed that tickets must be purchased months in advance to guarantee a place. Top tip for anyone interested in seeing Leo’s masterpiece! Soon it was time to make our way to San Siro. Luckily the metro line brings you right to its doorstep (Stop: ‘San Siro’ to make your life REALLY easy) and what a sight you are met with upon leaving the station. 

A dream come true

San Siro is instantly recognisable to anyone who loves football and I won’t lie - I did get a slight chill when standing in its shadow. The mere sight of San Siro excudes history. There is a real festival atmosphere to the matchday at San Siro. There are a huge number of stalls selling food, drink and merchandise circling the stadium which works brilliantly in building an engaging pre-match buzz. Access to the stadium is quick although they were very strict on I.D. so be sure to have one with you (in addition to your ticket / print or digital) or you won’t be getting in. Walking into a football stadium is nirvana for me. Big or small - the feeling of anticipation is so unique and never gets old. But I must say - the sheer sound coming from inside the stadium (as we ascended the famous winding blocks) took us by surprise. As one of my friends described - it was “guttural”. Finally - we reached level 5 of our block and could glimpse inside as we joined the queue to enter. That first glimpse is such a beautiful and subtle aspect of the matchday experience. And then…there we were. The sight of a packed San Siro was simply awe-inspiring. Luckily - the names of the players were still being announced by the P.A. meaning we could experience that special Italian ceremony of belting back the surnames. The noise was defeaning. 

The stadium is very steep and it feels like you are impeding on the pitch. The seats also have iron bars running infront of you which is so handy to lean on but I wonder if they are designed to keep spectators under control due to their raw passion. Who knows but they are a welcome addition. The Curva Sud is a sight to behold - approx 10,000 Ultras standing in unison behind the goal (80% in black t-shirts / the rest topless) singing constantly for 90 mins. The Italians are also known for their flags and it was fun to analyze each one and read its wording One such image is Bill the Butcher from Gangs of New York for ex. He seems to be a symbol of the Ultras. These flags are waved non-stop by the way. The crowd is a mix of young and old but what struck me was how many young Italian children were vocal and involved throughout. I am not talking about watching the game - I mean shouting, singing, arguing and kicking every ball. Its clear that the game, and this club, is a part of them now and forever. 

Deafening Atmosphere

And then there is the noise. The noise of 70,000 people heavily involved in the event. Not just there to take in a game of football. This club is an extension of who they are as individuals. My friend Eoin had an Apple Watch with him and received numerous warnings throughout the game about decibel levels. This tells you everything you need to know and as I sit and write this (5 days after the event) I am still struck by the atmosphere. It was something none of us expected and one we will never forget. 

The game itself was one way traffic. Bologna had some tidy players in the midfield (a shout out to Musa Barrow who covered every blade of grass while initiating every positive move forward for his side) but were blunt going forward (Arnautovic looked dis-interested after about 60 mins) and even worse at the back. Every time the home side got forward - Bologna looked open and vulnerable. If you check out the highlights Milan’s opener (from Leão) says it all. They got at Bologna and simply passed the ball into the net tamely. To be fair to Milan - they are a well drilled outfit pressing Bologna all over the park for 90 mins and didn’t really allow them to assert themselves. The standout was Hernandez - who seems to play as a wing-back as part of a back 4. Risky indeed but he is pacey, strong and is a good passer in the final third. The local hero Tonali was neat and tidy but had very little impact on the game. Otherwise Milans centre back (Kalulu) was first to everything, was not afraid to venture forward and controls the ball like a cultured midfielder rather than a defender. [side note] Milan did not play this home game in their famous red and black but in an army green third away shirt. Purely geared toward shirt sales - I get it. But not for me. 

A shout out to the Bologna fans, about 200 in the heavens, who sang from start to finish orchestrated by the Ultras leader who never gave up hope. However - I must say the away numbers were disappointing when you consider the cities are a 1 hour direct train journey apart. When the game ended we were reluctant to leave. I had waited to so long to experience the San Siro and it had far surpassed my expectations (which is rare to be honest). As we winded back down our block (full of chats and amazement) we were treated to the skies of Milan being lit up with thunder and lightning infused with an orange hue. The evening was epic in every way and this spectacle seemed an apt way to sign off. 

We met our friends in the agreed meeting spot, raved back and forth about the match and then decided it was time to grab some food. Luckily all the stalls were fully operational and stayed open until 1 hour after the game. It was here we met our new German friends. Like ourselves they travel all over Europe to watch football games and visit stadiums. They were all Bayern Munich fans and we all eulogised on how incredible the San Siro was and is. We all agreed that the preposed demolishment of the stadium is tragic and simply should not be allowed to happen. They shared a great story about (somehow) getting to Aspmyra stadium to see Bodo/Glimt hammer Jose Mourinho’s Roma 6-1. From the outside - this result may have seemed extraordinary - until our German friends informed us that the stadium is tiny (circa 6,000 attendance), is virtually unprotected from the wind (allowing the minus 15 wind to meet the Italians head-on) and that the security was so lax - spectators could walk on the pitch at any given moment without obstruction. This was not what the tanned Italian giants are used to and makes it unsurprising they weren’t up for the fight. We exchanged contacts, I invited them to come visit League of Ireland at some stage and we were ready to, regrettably, leave behind the Rossoneri’s colosseum. 

What next for San Siro?

A heads up to anyone looking to stick around San Siro afterwards - the nearest station (San Siro) closes surprisingly early with the last metro leaving at midnight. Additionally - the metro shuts after this time citywide meaning you have the choice of buses and / or taxis. 

There is a very real possibility that San Siro will not be around for much longer. While a public debate currently rages on in Milan the stadium is set to be demolished and reduces to a modern 60,000 arena as proposed by Inter and AC. On this subject matter - I have a similar opinion to that of Upton Park; it shouldn’t happen. It should be preserved. It should be seen, heard and celebrated by every football fan around the world. There is something special about Stadio Giuseppe Meazza. I leave for Bergamo airport overjoyed that I fulfilled a childhood dream but concerned about San Siro’s future. If you are a Milan fan reading this - do all you can to protect your home. You never appreciate what you have until it’s gone. 

Jamie the taximan - my new best friend

Its 3am on a Saturday morning, raining outside, freezing cold and my alarm clock is beeping. Why? Because I have a 6am flight from Dublin to Bristol and an 8.45am train from Bristol Temple Meads to Exeter St Davids. This morning I am travelling 580 miles to see Exeter City vs Stevenage in League Two. With 4 hours sleep under my belt (due to the 2-year-old who refused to go down and the new-born next door) I would be lying if I said I was fresh. A taxi man named Jamie calls me on the mobile at 3.15am to say he is outside, so I have little time to spare. Clothes on, brush of the teeth and I’m off.

Right…lets slow things down for a sec. Before setting sail – lets clarify what I know (at this point) about Exeter City FC. I know two things; 1) they share their stadium name with Newcastle United FC (a fact that worked to my advantage in the latter stages of a pub quiz years back) and 2) I remember watching them play brilliantly versus Liverpool (early stage of Klopp) in the FA cup and desperately wanting to be on the packed terrace under the floodlights to witness David vs Goliath. So lets just say I’m not an encyclopaedia of knowledge when it comes to The Grecians (their nickname) but I have a long road to travel and lots of time to squeeze in some study.

Jamie is my taxi driver. Much to my delight Jamie is a football fanatic. Turns out Jamie’s brother in law (Joe Kendrick) played with Newcastle United FC at underage level and found himself ping-ponging around the football league system for years before playing some ball for Drogheda United, Sligo and Bray in the league of Ireland. This means our discussion takes a myriad of directions including; grass roots football in Ireland, the International set-up, how tough it is for professional footballing journeymen and modern football (that Super League nonsense, remember?). I could not ask for a better start to the morning and am already chomping at the bit to spend the next 48 hours talking, thinking and dreaming about football. As I say goodbye to Jamie its clear we could have chatted for hours.

Cramming for my stadium exam

Dublin airport is packed but no bother – I decided to purchase a FastTrack pass in advance and wave goodbye to the hundreds of people queuing and proceed through security in under 15 minutes. The signs for the day ahead are indeed VERY positive thus far.

I make my way to Gate 111 and cram in some Exeter City homework by digesting Simon Inglis ‘Football Grounds of Britain’. Although published in 1987 – this book brilliantly analyses stadium changes, post Taylor Report, while also painting a very clear picture of how each stadium looks, sounds and feels. As well as its original construction and what is means to the surrounding area.

A 45 mins fight comes and goes quickly and before I know it – I’m on a bus (directly outside the airport) which connects with the city centre. I won’t lie…as the bus winds its way through a yawning Bristol city my connecting trains departure to Exeter is getting too close for comfort. Luckily my legs are in good form this morning and I make the train with 2 mins to spare. I now have an hour so its time for more research. “What’s the quickest way of understanding the mindset of Exeter City supporters?” I ask. The answer? A podcast! Luckily ‘The Big Bank Theory’ (a reference to the Big Bank stand in St James Park) is excellently produced and very enjoyable! What I find funniest about the episode is ‘how’ reluctant the hosts are in admitting that Exeter may in fact get promoted. Years of hurt (as I will later discover and detail here) makes it understandable in hindsight…but funny nonetheless.

Old friends reunited

I meet my friend Dom at Exeter St Davids and we are off. Dom has been reminding me, all week, that we “have a 11am appointment Saturday morning”. He refuses to reveal what the appointment is which makes me excited but nervous. No need. Turns out Dom has got us two tickets to the St James Park stadium tour (free by the way) hosted by Martin Weiler. Just as I thought – Dom knows me inside-out.

Stadium Tour

The tour lasts 90 mins (I wish it lasted for hours) and Martin is an incredibly positive, affable and informative host. I’ll share my two favourite pieces of trivia from the tour; 1) Brazil’s first ever match was against Exeter City FC on 21 July 1914 in Rio de Janeiro & 2) St James Park train station is the closest ‘train station to stadium’ in the country (we are talking about 10 yards here). But if I recounted Exeter City’s history and what I learned – this blog would never end. Needless to say – it was fantastic. As a league of Ireland supporter – what struck me most was the infrastructure. Exeter City are a club in the 4th tier of English football with no major trophies to their name (in fact – their only trophy is winning the Fourth Division in 1990) and yet the set-up is so far beyond anything in Irish football. That’s not a criticism of Irish football…more a reminder of how deeply embedded football is in English life, society, investments etc. St James Park has a museum, executive boxes, supporters bar, club shop, conference room. These are the envy of most Irish football clubs but standard in England.

As for the stadium itself – it has lots of character. The ‘Big Bank’ (below image) is the largest terraced stand in English league football. Later that day it is packed to the rafters and a beautiful sight to behold (see video above). The main stand is standard enough, but I am struck by the advertising of a local taxi company – their branded sticker on each seat is a really innovate way of attracting more investment. Aesthetically it doesn’t look great but for a club looking to partner with local businesses – its certainly novel. The away end looks like a temporary stand and is small. However, this isn’t an issue as I am informed that away support in the division is poor (one club, formed in the late 19th century, who shall not be named brought 20 away fans one Sat afternoon). The exception being “big” clubs like Swindon and Bradford. Finally – the Adam Stanfield stand is new and named after an ex. Exeter City player who passed away from cancer at the young age of only 31. A really nice gesture which feeds into the club’s narrative of being ‘community focused’. Looking across at the Adam Stanfield stand (from the main stand) – you will notice a massive gap to the right. The reason for this is that a rail track passes immediately below the stadium (remember the above trivia?) and construction of a stand would simply not be possible. A common joke is just ‘how’ many footballs have made their way down that hill over the years.

East Devon Grecians

At the end of the stadium tour Martin introduces me to Di Lee who is heavily involved in the East Devon Grecians (a community of 200+ members who organise events geared toward supporting Exeter City). Di talks so passionately about her love for the club, excitement for matchday every week, her long term affiliation and how important member clubs are in promoting inclusion to the marginalised. She also shares a funny story about when she started managing girls’ football (as part of the East Devon Grecians). In their first match (for most of the girls playing – it was their first official football match) the key aim was ensuring they ran in the right direction with the ball…which proved exhausting.

Di takes us into the supporters bar where we are introduced to Neil. Neil serves the locally brewed ale while his team cook up Cornish pasties (of which you can pre-order well in advance of kick off). A swift ale (literally) settles us all into a conversation about their involvement with the club, expectations for the current season and what it means to be affiliated with the Grecians. The sun is shining, anecdotes flowing and excitement building for kick off. I just about have time to pop into the club shop. Its small, short on sizes and surprisingly expensive. The purchase of a club scarf is made and we are on our way to the Big Bank for kick off.

All are welcome at St James Park

What pleases me most is the mix of supporters; young, old, male, female, families. The atmosphere is really good for a Sat afternoon kick off and a full Bank is a sight to behold – something that has been lost to modern football post-Hillsborough. As for the game? Matt Taylor has Exeter playing a very expansive brand of football. They move the ball quick, in tight spaces and like to get the ball forward at every opportunity. At the back – they are marshalled by Sam Stubbs (son of Alan) who is the stand-out player for sure. In fact – a fan told me on the terrace before kick off “he is far too good for this level”. He’s not wrong. He even chips in with 2 goals. Otherwise I really like Archie Collins in the centre – a busy midfielder who is so clean with his passing. Always short and sharp and hardly gave the ball away all day. Jack Sparkes, full back, is a pure athlete. Up and down the line all day long. Cutting out crosses one end and then delivering quality balls up the other. A real prospect imo. Stevenage are a very limited side relying on a tall centre forward to hold up play and bring in support. Elliot List is their standout – looking dangerous whenever in possession.

Jem is a gem

2-1 to the Grecians at half time and this is when I am introduced to Jem. Jem is a friend of Dom and a local Exeter City fan. The man is a gent and pure salt of the earth. He has been a long-time fan of the club and recites many stories of travelling up and down the country to games. For one game (Birmingham), when Jem was a teenager, he hitchhiked for 2 days to the game and then 1 day back. Now ‘that’ is commitment. To highlight just how cultured Jem is – he is keen to discuss Irish football knowing an incredible amount about our clubs, history, achievements, stadiums, players etc. Its at this point I realise that I need to return to Exeter if not only to meet up with Jem again and talk all things football.

And its these chance encounters that make football and sport so special. Before that day – I had never known or met Jem. But come 3.45pm of a Sat afternoon we are kindred spirits keen to learn from each other, retell stories, trade knowledge and will now most likely stay in touch. These characters exist all over the world and there is nothing I would rather be doing than getting to know them. Every Sat, up and down the nation of Britain, a mass movement occurs. Hundreds of thousands migrate to every corner of the island in sheer dedication to a crest. Buses, trains, pies, Bovril, shouting, crying, laughing, pride. It’s ceremonial. Its ritual. Its glorious to be a part of. Away days aye…bloody hell.

Up the football league they go?

The match finishes 2-1 to Exeter City and to a chorus of “Up the football league we go” from the Big Bank. The game was a borderline sell out and the atmosphere didn’t disappoint. It felt like a really enjoyable period for the club and its fans. The connection between players and fans was palpable and, for 2 hours, all doom and gloom of the world disappeared while just under 6,000 people became enveloped in football. Within the walls of this 118 year old arena – people ‘belonged’ and celebrated that fact.

As I publish this – Exeter City continue to chase promotion but as detailed above – its ‘everything else’ that matters. Not the football. The people of Exeter have a club to be proud of and a stadium to cherish.